Samantha Cooper – Public Relations
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2020s Vision: Current Landscape

4/19/2021

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It has been a defining year to be a young person in the United States, and a fascinating one to be a fan of fashion. When the whole world stopped, industries across the board were forced to grapple with their propensity for flexibility and innovation. Art was a safe haven for a lot of us in 2020, with music and television giving us a window into a realm where challenges seemed simple when compared to the panic and major questions weighing heavy on us each day. In fashion, while consumerism took a dive, an important opportunity emerged to bring some of the industry’s persistent whispers to full conversations. I choose to see this as a recalibration, a clear chance to consider the priorities that did and should define fashion at the start of a new decade. 

When asked to describe the state of the fashion industry in 2021, executives came back to three words: uncertain, challenging and disruptive. Though the journey is shaping up to be untraditional, these three words represent change. Generation Z has already proven that they will not stand for many of the elitist, exclusionary practices that were characteristic of fashion in the early 21st century, demanding expanded and authentic commitment to sustainability, diversity and overall integrity. While those expectations have been growing, the COVID-19 pandemic presented a set of problems that no one could have prepared for and in turn served as a catalyst for many necessary shifts that the industry likely should have welcomed years ago. For someone who wants to build a career in fashion, I don’t think there has been a more exciting or pivotal time to participate in what will hopefully prove to be the start of a new era. 

In this 2020s Vision series, I plan to look at some of the major forces set to define the next decade of fashion, as well as the people and brands emerging as pioneers. While in many ways it feels like we’re in the eye of the storm, join me in exploring essential trends and the questions that have yet to be answered when we think about the fashion industry. ​
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Diversity at PwC: Leadership Through Advocacy & Allyship

3/7/2021

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Last week, the New York Times referred to PwC senior partner Tim Ryan as a "white, male, Irish-Catholic millionaire." Hardly a title expected to match a leader in corporate diversity, equity and inclusion, but nonetheless, Ryan has proven himself and professional services network PwC to be committed to authentic allyship and setting standards to be followed by corporate organizations everywhere.

If Tim Ryan's leadership journey had to be broken down to one word, it would be listening. Following a number of fatal shootings around the country in 2016, Ryan received an email from a Black employee wondering why there had been no recognition of the events at work. Rather than simply acknowledging this employee's concerns in a memo, Ryan responded by clearing the whole company's schedules for a day to prioritize a firm-wide conversation about race. Despite being vehemently discouraged by other executives, Ryan proceeded, strong in his beliefs of the importance of transparency. Following the conversation, another Black employee approached Ryan, reminding him of his responsibility to push other companies to diversify alongside PwC. Following through on this idea is likely what will define Tim Ryan's legacy as a leader, within and outside of PwC. 

Ryan credited much of his leadership style to lessons his mother instilled in him: "You've got to respect people. You've got to listen. The best leaders are the ones who listen and process, and listen and process." It is this level of consideration for his colleagues and the issues that mater to them that led to an undeniably powerful transition that started at PwC but would soon extend far outward. 2017 marked the start of CEO Action for Diversity, a group of organizations, led by Ryan, committed to diversifying their work forces and sharing the practices that got them there. Today, the program includes more than 1,600 CEOs worldwide, fostering an ongoing conversation about corporate diversity and inclusion that is all the more relevant four years after its launch.

In 2020, with the world shaken by an unprecedented pandemic and a social justice revolution, Tim Ryan recognized the necessity for leading by example, and PwC released a Diversity & Inclusion Transparency Report. A testament to continued progress, Ryan explained what he really wanted to communicate with the report: "Look at us. We're not perfect. But here are the steps we're taking to get better." Just because PwC has been forthcoming and admirably honest about their relationship to corporate diversity does not mean their journey is done. Creating and publicizing the larger goals that inform the company's mission comes back to Ryan's philosophy on listening and processing, being in tune with stakeholders and culture at large. 

In his interview with the Times, Ryan touched on the response he got from many white male colleagues as diversity initiatives were implemented. Several of them felt cheated or that their work was devalued as others were lifted. To this, Tim Ryan poignantly responded, "You may not be the lead partner, but how about helping the person get the role? What would you rather be remembered for? What do you want to be inspired by?" As communications professionals and leaders, these are the most important conversations to be having. In prioritizing diversity, transparency and listening, we can build and encourage environments that are not only successful in business but in culture as well, enthusiastically assuming the role of advocate and ally. 

Questions to Consider:

  • What are your thoughts on Tim Ryan's initial responses to employee input on diversity? What would you have done differently, if anything?
  • What is your reaction to Ryan's response to his white male colleagues? Do you agree or disagree with his line of thinking?
  • Is being a leader and a white male ally an asset, or will Ryan's lack of personal experience with issues of diversity limit his ability to make impactful change? 
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A Sweet Take On Corporate Activism

11/14/2019

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Jamie, a Ben & Jerry's representative, scoops Justice ReMix'd for students at the S.I. Newhouse School of Public Communications at Syracuse University.
​"Business has a responsibility to give back to the community," said Ben Cohen when he and Jerry Greenfield founded the ice cream empire that is now Ben & Jerry's. Grand Poobah of PR Sean Greenwood knows how integral community involvement is to Ben & Jerry's as a company, and its latest partnership with the Advancement Project is yet another example of its fine-tuned recipe for corporate social activism. 

In a presentation organized by Syracuse University's chapter of the Public Relations Student Society of America, Greenwood and digital campaigns strategist for the Advancement Project Cedric Brown dove deep into the planning and results of Justice ReMix'd, a limited-batch flavor created to foster awareness and education regarding racial justice issues. During the program, entitled The Sweet Taste of Justice: The Advancement Project's and Ben & Jerry's Quest for a Just Democracy, the two discussed the function of public relations in a values-driven business. 

By weighting their social mission with the same importance as their product and economic missions, Ben & Jerry's not only communicates its commitment to making the world a better place, but it also allows the company to develop thoughtful and impactful campaigns that feel authentic to the brand, the cause and the consumer. And of course, for Ben & Jerry's, this happens through ice cream. To the untrained eye, Justice ReMix'd is just swirls of chocolate and cinnamon ice cream with bites of cinnamon bun dough and spicy brownies. Those ingredients were not just picked because they are delicious, but because they illustrate the mission of the Advancement Project. The chocolate and cinnamon ice creams represent people of all different races, while the spicy fudge brownies stand for "the fight that we all need to have to fight for our rights," according to Cedric Brown. The attention to detail here showcases the passion of both organizations while creating a tasty product that will serve as a starting point for conversation and education.
Ben & Jerry's certainly has the option to partner with larger organizations that would bring them more media attention. According to Greenwood, however, the brand cares most about amplifying messages that are pertinent and powerful, regardless of the reach of the organization it partners with. In the case of the Advancement Project, Ben & Jerry's provides it with an invaluable opportunity to increase engagement and educate lots of interested citizens. The Justice ReMix'd campaign received over 300 million impressions, bringing tons of new eyes to the causes championed by the Advancement Project. And a little support from an outspoken, passionate person in Hollywood like Jesse Williams certainly never hurt. 

Something as simple as an ice cream truck can engage people enough to start a greater conversation, and Ben & Jerry's has found a formula for providing that foundation for several organizations, the Advancement Project included. As talk of Generation Z becoming the most conscious shoppers grows, it is companies with a reputation for doing good for the right reasons that will thrive. Greenwood explained that from Ben & Jerry's perspective, "Instead of running away from controversy, we get comfortable running into it." Standing up for what is right is not something new to Ben & Jerry's, but it looks like they could see an even greater payoff with some love from Gen Z. Because who doesn't want a sweet taste of justice?
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The Digital Revolution of Fashion Communications

11/10/2019

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Many people consider the heyday of fashion to be when the Anna Wintours of the industry handpicked trends and published them in their 500-page-thick September issues. Exclusivity was at an all time high, as A-list actresses sat front row at New York Fashion Week while wannabe fashionistas stood outside, desperate for a glimpse of that season’s collections. Today, those wannabe fashionistas have become powerful influencers, and anyone can stream their favorite couture shows online.
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According to Daniel Marks, Chief Creative Officer of The Communications Store, “The only thing that hasn’t changed about [public relations] is that it’s about relationships and about trust.” The digital sphere has completely shifted what consumers expect and how they interact with the fashion industry. The surplus of options paired with easier access to shopping than ever before fosters an environment that embraces customer buying power. The concepts of real-time buying and one-click ordering capitalize on the essence of e-commerce, streamlining the process of seeing a cute outfit on Instagram and having it in your closet within the week. But in fashion, social media is for much more than shopping. 
"The only thing that hasn't changed about [public relations] is that it's about relationships and about trust."
Social media, and Instagram especially, have made the often mysterious and exclusive world of fashion more personal and accessible. Instead of reading letters from the editor, consumers are getting an inside look into the minds and lives of fashion’s most successful designers. Before the age of Instagram, most fashion followers could not connect big brand names like Gucci and Louis Vuitton with anyone in particular, but now, designers like Alessandro Michele and Nicolas Ghesquière have become celebrities in their own right. 
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Social media allows designers to showcase their works of art while retaining a level of narrative control, in addition to providing a platform for direct interaction with customers. On Sunday mornings, Amy Smilovic, founder and creative director of Tibi invites her 21.7k followers to ask her questions, which she answers on her Instagram Story throughout the week. That level of personal connection was never possible before, giving consumers the chance to become loyal brand fans with an emotional connection to their mission.
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Tibi designer Amy Smilovic shares fashion insight via her Instagram captions
Simple product announcements are no longer newsworthy; there needs to be a story that gives customers a reason to pay attention. The digital revolution of fashion has created a simultaneous surge of humanity, breaking down fashion’s cold exterior to highlight the innate artistry and passion that keeps the industry thriving. Getting a backstage look into the imaginations and inspirations of fashionable creatives is just one of the many gifts that social media has granted fashion devotees. For a member of Generation Z who dreams of working in the fashion industry, it seems that, today, we are living in the heyday of fashion. ​
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/Fashion: What YouTube's New Vertical Means for Fashion

10/27/2019

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Source: YouTube
Move over Eva Chen, there’s another fashion veteran breaking into the social scene. 
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As an art form and a powerful vehicle for self-expression, fashion lends itself beautifully to visual content. While Instagram was quick to find ways to interact with brands in the fashion industry, YouTube was not as fast to adapt, but that is changing. Journalist, style expert and friend of fashion Derek Blasberg joined YouTube in June of 2018 as their first-ever head of fashion and beauty partnerships. A year later, the video giant is bringing high fashion to Gen Z with exclusive curated content.

According to Blasberg, YouTube’s /Fashion vertical aims to bring the best fashion and beauty content together in one location. Highlighting existing creators and new partnerships, /Fashion gives viewers behind-the-scenes looks into the world of couture through industry collaborations, runway live streams and vlogs from major players in the business of fashion. 

Before Blasberg, fashion brands interested in YouTube did not have anyone to consult or support their goals on the platform. Now, Blasberg is finding ways to connect brands, publications, models and content creators, bringing loyal YouTube watchers to fashion and fashion fans to YouTube. 
The cornerstone of /Fashion is Louis Vuitton and LVTV. Although their partnerships were initially met with some pushback from the high fashion community, Louis Vuitton has seamlessly incorporated Gen Z YouTubers into their strategy in order to introduce the next generation to their brand ethos. Blasberg matched Louis Vuitton with Emma Chamberlain and the Dolan Twins, content creators in their late teens with millions of subscribers and unique personal styles. Not only does the partnership bring legitimacy and gravitas to Chamberlain and the Dolans, it also shows Louis Vuitton’s acceptance of the digital age and Gen Z. 

The key to success on /Fashion? Brands need to think like creators, says Blasberg. Users come to YouTube for experiences they cannot get anywhere else, and for an industry that has a reputation for being glamorous and mysterious, fans crave a behind-the-scenes look. From the ateliers of Dior and Marc Jacobs to the lives of iconic it-girls like Alexa Chung and Naomi Campbell, /Fashion gives viewers an inside look into the real world of fashion. 

Although they are both in the social media and technology space, YouTube is not trying to come for Instagram; what they really want is to replace television. YouTube is the long-form video complement to Instagram’s easily-digestible clips and photos of fashion moments. Bringing live events, brand sneak-peeks and personal vlogs to one place, /Fashion is quickly becoming the go-to destination for digital fashion content.
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What is your favorite way to interact with fashion content? Are you excited about the /Fashion vertical? Who do you want to see on /Fashion? Share your thoughts below!
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Fashion Gets Creative with Sustainability

10/13/2019

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It is no secret that the fashion industry has a serious image problem. In everything from model diversity to animal rights, the fashion industry has a reputation for being on the wrong side of history and slow to adapt. However, there is one issue taking the industry by storm, impacting every level from fast fashion to haute couture: sustainability. Fashion is the second largest consumer of water and accounts for as much as 10 percent of global carbon emissions. Thanks to demands from strong-willed Millennial and Gen Z consumers, Spring 2020 collections finally showed the start of a commitment to eco-consciousness. Sustainability is multidimensional, and in a new age of awareness, some brands are beginning to emerge as pioneers.
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Source: Converse
We started to see a shift toward sustainability in fashion with the reuse of fabrics. As over $500 billion worth of clothes end up in landfills every year, some brands are finding ways to repurpose or “upcycle” textiles to minimize waste. In a partnership with European vintage giant Beyond Retro, Converse brings an unlikely companion to their famous Chuck Taylors. With Converse Renew Denim, old pairs of jeans are turned into uppers of sneakers, creating a sustainable, one-of-a-kind footwear experience for each customer. One pair of jeans can turn into at least one pair of sneakers, and not only is the fabric repurposed, but it also does not have to be broken down to be reused, lessening its footprint. While they cost $5 more than the classics, customers know that they are making an exclusive purchase they can feel good about.
While conversation continues to grow around fabrics, before this season, few people stopped to think about the environmental implications that come with producing a fashion show. Enter Gabriela Hearst: a New York designer who will forever be known as the first to present her collection with a carbon neutral show. Through initiatives like only using local models that would not have to fly in and lowering appliance use backstage, the designer did commit to a smaller footprint, but it is not currently possible to host a show that is completely carbon-free. That being said, her goal of neutrality was actualized through offsetting, or donating to other causes to reduce emissions around the world. For Hearst, this meant supporting the Hifadhi-Livelihoods Project in Kenya, providing families with modern cooktops to reduce the use of wood and the creation of fumes. As she brought her concept to life, Gabriela Hearst showed that any brand can make sustainability fit into their mission.
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Source: Vogue
As more brands announce sustainability initiatives, critics are quick to question the impact one change will make. The truth here is that no one can save the planet overnight. Fans of fashion are allowed to be excited that their favorite brands are taking responsibility, but there is certainly a long way to go. The key here will be making sure the trend does not pass, and it does not look like Gen Z is ready to give up this fight. 
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Do you think this is enough to create a real shift in the fashion industry? Who do you see getting creative with sustainability? Share your thoughts below!
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SS20: 5 Designers Who Embraced Diversity This NYFW

9/29/2019

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For much of the history of contemporary fashion, there has only been one definition of beauty: young, white, able-bodied and size zero. But as someone who wants to build their future in the world of fashion communications, the SS20 runway at New York Fashion Week reinforced my faith in an inclusivity revolution that the fashion industry desperately needs and seems finally ready to welcome. Here are five designers whose SS20 collections made me proud and excited for the future of high fashion: 
1. Kate Spade
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Source: Vogue
Creative director Nicola Glass wanted every customer to see themselves on the Kate Spade runway this season. In a show honoring the brand's late founder, models of all races and body types walked, in addition to featuring a push for diversity that few designers have explored: age. The star of the show was the "Accidental Icon" herself, Lyn Slater. While Slater is 66 years-old, she is very vocal about not being defined by her age. Her blog speaks to women who are intelligent, curious and compassionate, characteristics that should be given much more value than the superficial beauty standards commonly touted by fashion. 
​2. Chromat
For the last ten years, Chromat has made swim and activewear for the future. Founder Becca McCharen-Tran celebrated the anniversary of her brand with updated classics and modern designs, all of which were showcased on one of the most diverse groups of models in New York. Chromat was one of the first lines to highlight inclusivity in their mission statement, and they have certainly honored their commitment to it. 
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Source: Vogue
​3. TommyxZendaya
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Source: Harper's Bazaar
Actress and Gen Z style icon Zendaya brings a youthful flare to Tommy Hilfiger's classic American designs in the pair's second collaboration. Zendaya has been known to speak up for diversity, especially on behalf of the African-American community, and this show was no different. In addition to nods like hosting the show in Harlem, the runway boasted models of all ages, races and religions. Among them was plus-sized model Ashley Graham, proudly displaying her baby bump.
4. Christian Siriano
Christian Siriano is no stranger to diversity. He designs for all types of women, especially those ignored by other designers, from the runway to the red carpet. This season's show featured a diverse cast as well as highlighted portraits of inclusive icons like Laverne Cox and Lady Gaga. A culmination of popular culture, art and couture, Siriano's Spring 2020 collection is a testament to making inclusivity a fashion standard. 
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Source: Vogue
5. Savage X Fenty
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Source: Vogue
Victoria's Secret is dead, and Robyn Rihanna Fenty took the final shot. Rihanna vowed that "every woman deserves to feel sexy," and every kind of woman was represented in her runway spectacular. Setting a new standard for inclusion in lingerie and the fashion industry as a whole, Rihanna gave music and fashion fans a new understanding of runway. The future is Rihanna's, and we're all just living in it. 
2020 is the start of a new golden age of fashion, but there is still so much room to grow. As fashion month comes to a close, we've seen some of the most inclusive runways yet, but some of the giants remain hesitant to stray from their long-standing ideals. As Gen Z reaches the workforce, it will be our responsibility to keep the momentum strong within the fashion industry.

What do you think will be the next movement to hit fashion? Who do you want to see embrace diversity with their next collection? Share your thoughts below!
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The Future of PR, According to Diversity Experts

9/24/2019

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Andy Checo of Havas Formula (left) and Sabrina Macias of DraftKings (middle) talking with Michael Meath (right), interim chair of the public relations department at the S.I. Newhouse School of Public Communications.
“Diversity” is no longer just a buzzword. According to Andy Checo of Havas Formula and Sabrina Macias of DraftKings, diversity only works if it’s authentic, coming from a place of care and curiosity, not just checking demographic boxes. In a panel hosted by the S.I. Newhouse School of Public Communications entitled “An Industry Evolution: Public Relations in a Diverse and Inclusive Landscape,” Checo and Macias outlined what they expect and hope to see in the future of public relations as an industry. Intertwined with anecdotes and advice, here are the key messages they shared with the next generation of public relations practitioners:

1. Gen Z is raising diversity from a conversation to an integral business practice. 

Defining themselves by their work ethic and accomplishments, the open minds of Gen Z are demanding diversity and inclusion of their employers. As the president of the Hispanic Public Relations Association, Checo stressed that the future of diversity will be focused on filling rooms with people from as many different walks of life as possible, bringing together groups of communicators that are skilled in speaking to various types of audiences. 

2. Brands say something when they don’t say anything.

Consumers respect a brand that is willing to take a strong stance on a pertinent cultural issue, as long as it is authentic to the mission of the company. Sometimes, staying too quiet makes a brand look out-of-touch or even apathetic. Public relations professionals should evaluate what their audience is looking for and what issues resonate with both parties. 

3. The lines are blurring between paid, earned and shared media.

As influencer marketing has blown up, it is not as easy to classify media. That being said, paid partnerships represent some of the most effective campaigns of the last few years. With the rise of sponsored posts and advertorials, it is up to practitioners to find a balance that still feels honest to consumers. 

4. Thoughtfulness and empathy should not be ignored.

PR and writing skills can be taught, but passion and eagerness cannot. Practitioners have to dig deeper to really connect with the audiences they are trying to reach, not just talk at them. Macias shared that she feels a responsibility to push the PR industry to be more nuanced, taking the time to evaluate what culture means to different people. 

5. Storytelling is king.

Before any other title, PR practitioners are storytellers. They should assume that role with strength, when it comes to communicating with both clients and key publics. Every brand has a story, and it’s public relations that keeps that story relevant and engaging. 

In order to create environments that encourage inclusion, Checo and Macias hope that education will foster a pipeline that turns diverse students into diverse public relations practitioners. As the future of the PR industry, it is the students of Newhouse and beyond that will hopefully make their vision a reality. It is through conversations with leaders like those offered by Newhouse Speaks that students can discover issues in their industry that they are passionate about and can be successful in making real change.
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