SS20: 5 Designers Who Embraced Diversity This NYFW

9/29/2019

For much of the history of contemporary fashion, there has only been one definition of beauty: young, white, able-bodied and size zero. But as someone who wants to build their future in the world of fashion communications, the SS20 runway at New York Fashion Week reinforced my faith in an inclusivity revolution that the fashion industry desperately needs and seems finally ready to welcome. Here are five designers whose SS20 collections made me proud and excited for the future of high fashion:

1. Kate Spade

Source: Vogue

Creative director Nicola Glass wanted every customer to see themselves on the Kate Spade runway this season. In a show honoring the brand's late founder, models of all races and body types walked, in addition to featuring a push for diversity that few designers have explored: age. The star of the show was the "Accidental Icon" herself, Lyn Slater. While Slater is 66 years-old, she is very vocal about not being defined by her age. Her blog speaks to women who are intelligent, curious and compassionate, characteristics that should be given much more value than the superficial beauty standards commonly touted by fashion.

2. Chromat

For the last ten years, Chromat has made swim and activewear for the future. Founder Becca McCharen-Tran celebrated the anniversary of her brand with updated classics and modern designs, all of which were showcased on one of the most diverse groups of models in New York. Chromat was one of the first lines to highlight inclusivity in their mission statement, and they have certainly honored their commitment to it.

Source: Vogue

3. TommyxZendaya

Source: Harper's Bazaar

Actress and Gen Z style icon Zendaya brings a youthful flare to Tommy Hilfiger's classic American designs in the pair's second collaboration. Zendaya has been known to speak up for diversity, especially on behalf of the African-American community, and this show was no different. In addition to nods like hosting the show in Harlem, the runway boasted models of all ages, races and religions. Among them was plus-sized model Ashley Graham, proudly displaying her baby bump.

4. Christian Siriano

Christian Siriano is no stranger to diversity. He designs for all types of women, especially those ignored by other designers, from the runway to the red carpet. This season's show featured a diverse cast as well as highlighted portraits of inclusive icons like Laverne Cox and Lady Gaga. A culmination of popular culture, art and couture, Siriano's Spring 2020 collection is a testament to making inclusivity a fashion standard.

Source: Vogue

5. Savage X Fenty

Source: Vogue

Victoria's Secret is dead, and Robyn Rihanna Fenty took the final shot. Rihanna vowed that "every woman deserves to feel sexy," and every kind of woman was represented in her runway spectacular. Setting a new standard for inclusion in lingerie and the fashion industry as a whole, Rihanna gave music and fashion fans a new understanding of runway. The future is Rihanna's, and we're all just living in it.

2020 is the start of a new golden age of fashion, but there is still so much room to grow. As fashion month comes to a close, we've seen some of the most inclusive runways yet, but some of the giants remain hesitant to stray from their long-standing ideals. As Gen Z reaches the workforce, it will be our responsibility to keep the momentum strong within the fashion industry.

What do you think will be the next movement to hit fashion? Who do you want to see embrace diversity with their next collection? Share your thoughts below!

5 Comments

Shannon Bozman

10/10/2019 04:34:07 pm

I'm so happy to see that this year's New York Fashion Week made strides towards greater inclusion! As a fashion fan, but an expert by no means, and a proponent of greater diversity across industries, I was elated to read this piece. Some of the names didn't surprise me - as you eloquently pointed out, Zendaya and Rihanna are both known for speaking out about issues of representation and inclusion. However, I was excited to gain the exposure to some designers I wasn't familiar with, or was unaware of their efforts towards greater diversity in fashion. The beauty industry seems to be warming to the idea of greater, and more diverse representation and especially now that Gen Z is gaining a greater voice and social media is continuing to gain power, it's hopefully only a matter of time until the runways of New York Fashion Week include representation for people of all identities and walks of life. As we've already experienced, like your example of Victoria's Secret, fans are now quick to judge brands that don't prioritize diversity, and cancel culture should be a serious fear for brands that haven't yet progressed toward the use of more diverse models. Here's hoping these designers can lead us into a new, more inclusive age of fashion and beauty!

Rachel Aaron

10/13/2019 11:27:38 am

This was an amazing read! I consider myself a big fan of the art of fashion. For a long time, I have been contemplating whether the fashion industry would be a world in which I would eventually work. As a kid, I remember telling my parents it was my dream to plan a show at New York Fashion Week. Once I got a bit older, I started to recognize the various discrepancies in the industry and all of its shortcomings. As a woman who has never felt represented by the models that typically walk in fashion shows, I was so ecstatic to see the images in this post and learn about the brands who are making inclusivity efforts. I find it particularly interesting that you mentioned the Victoria's Secret fashion show. Every year my social media feeds are clouded with images of the models who walk in that show, articles about how they "got the perfect Victoria's Secret body," and so on. Nothing ever seems to improve surrounding that show, which has always disappointed me. In today's world, it is crucial to celebrate all body types and unify women. As more brands in the fashion industry begin to embrace diversity, it will encourage others to also hop on the progressive trend.

Alaina Caruso

10/13/2019 12:03:19 pm

Loved this post – it is so reassuring to hear that the fashion industry is finally starting to make strides past the classic and traditional white, tall and impossibly thin standard that has not changed for decades. Kate Spade’s show probably surprised me the most! When I think of inclusivity and diversity, age is not something that immediately comes to mind. I love how Kate Spade is embracing older models, especially when not many other designers are. I hope age is one of the next movements to hit fashion. Fashion is not a passion that ends after you are 30 – I hope more designers begin to recognize that women of all ages love fashion and that they should be represented on the runway as well. Further, I think models of color are receiving more representation, as nearly half the models of this NYFW were women of color. Yet, plus sized models are still lacking – there were actually declines this year in the number of plus sized models. I hope to see more plus sized models across the board in the future. Further, transgender models are also lacking representation and I hope a designer takes the initiative to make bigger strides toward the transgender route of diversity.

Meggie Wells

10/13/2019 07:18:29 pm

As a long-time fan of fashion, the lack of diversity on the runway has always been disappointing to me, so it is great to read about these examples of expanding diversity efforts. I have always loved Kate Spade’s products, and it’s exciting to see her addressing the lack of diversity in age within fashion. I have never heard of Lyn Slater before, but her inclusion in this show is encouraging to me. Particularly as a woman, no matter what industry I end up working in, I want to make sure I continue to have a place in the workforce and to be represented as I get older.

To answer your question, while Victoria’s Secret has had lots of issues with diversity and representation, I would love to see them embrace diversity and body positivity in their future shows. I purchase products from Victoria’s Secret, along with many people I know, but I do not feel represented by their branding and fashion shows. I know people of other identities feel even more excluded as well. I don’t think the company’s current mindset will stand the test of time as more and more brands move toward increasingly diverse representation.

There are obviously still so many improvements to be made in all aspects of diversity in fashion, but as we members of Gen Z enter into the workforce, I am hopeful that these improvements can be made. Our generation is focused on supporting brands that represent our various values and identities more than ever before, so I look forward to seeing what change we can bring about in the industry.

Sara Caywood link

10/13/2019 08:40:55 pm

As a not-so-dedicated fashion follower, I can honestly say I have a new appreciation for the industry. Being a female in a time where the media and popular culture's expectations of our appearance exceed realistic attainability, I found this post so refreshing. Specifically, reading about Chromat and Tommy Hilfiger's inclusion of plus-sized models makes me hopeful for the future of the fashion industry and the level of confidence it instills upon its audience. Sending the message that women of all sizes are welcome to the same high-class caliber of clothing as women shopping in the size 2 rack has the potential to positively resonate with young girls struggling with their self-confidence. We constantly study how popular celebrities and authority figures use their media power to call attention to causes that they find important and in need of conversations and action. I consider the fashion industry, including the brands and models within them, to have an extremely large amount of power when it comes to leaving impressions on their media audience. With these examples and, hopefully, more to come, the fashion industry has the power to start a new era of body positivity - and I can’t wait to see it happen.

SS20: 5 Designers Who Embraced Diversity This NYFW

Leave a Reply.

Archives

Categories