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2020s Vision: Fashion Media

4/29/2021

For as long as anyone reading this would remember, fashion media could be summed up in one word: Vogue. While hundreds of other glossy pages decorate newsstands in major cities around the world, Anna Wintour and her team have come to represent the height of trendsetting and couture coverage. Though it is the vehicle through which so many of today’s designers, thought leaders and rising professionals (myself included) fell in love with fashion, Vogue and its counterparts are largely responsible for perpetuating an unattainable, “aspirational” standard of beauty that was only represented by unnaturally thin, exorbitantly wealthy white women. To understand how we move forward, it’s helpful to unpack some of the structures that got us here.

For much of their history, fashion publications were only able to exist because brands and houses would buy tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars of advertising space within their pages. But when the pandemic ravaged economies everywhere, ad spend was the first thing to go for most companies, causing as much as an 80 percent drop in budget. Additionally, now that brands have access to digital technology that provides them with specific insights into the performance of their ads and their audiences, many are wondering why they should still invest in traditional platforms, especially when they are significantly lagging in embracing diversity and overall social progress. And as fashion has been unsuccessful in attempting to capitalize on traditional media’s move from print to digital subscription, what’s next for these legacy brands?

To break it down, there’s a choice of two paths forward. For publications that don’t care to shift their purpose, for a period of time, they will be able to coast on a recognizable name and make some changes to content. For some legacy brands with several generations of readers, there’s an opening for an e-commerce angle. Through brand partnerships replacing advertising, the curation of shopping experiences and product guides could give traditional publications a new niche. The other option, which I hope proves to be the predominant one, would be to follow in the footsteps of Harper’s Bazaar. When Hearst appointed Samira Nasr as editor of chief, making her the first woman of color to hold the role at its fashion leader, the publishing giant took some major action that many of its peers have failed to even discuss. In many ways, fashion media has been built on aspiration, and under Nasr’s leadership, that aspiration is moving toward social progress, not fame or fortune. In the next decade, fashion media will be categorized by those who lend their platforms to brands based on price tags and those who prioritize purpose.

On a different note, a new category of fashion media has been defined by one very special Instagram account. Diet Prada, the brainchild of Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler, is a watchdog, a commentator, and when it is deserved, a celebrator of artistry. Whether it be calling out stolen ideas, cultural appropriation, celebrity missteps or racism in the industry, Diet Prada has never been afraid to bring a critical eye to a field that has been given far too many free passes. Liu and Schuyler are feared by many, but the irony is, they are simply shedding light on patterns that have been swept under the rug for years. A welcome drop of honesty and candor in an ocean free from accountability, as an independent effort, Diet Prada has the freedom to act with a level of moral integrity that most others have not found.

Schuyler told Business of Fashion, “‘I want to be able to love the fashion industry more purely. The more I learn about it, I think, ‘Well this needs to change.’ It needs to change so that I can keep loving it.’” This is the energy all facets of the fashion industry, especially the media, need in the 2020s.

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Credibility: The Key to Reputation Management

4/27/2021

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Reputation, though intangible and illusive, is one of the most important and impactful qualities that a brand can build and protect. In “Rethinking Reputation: How PR Trumps Marketing and Advertising in the New Media World,” Fraser P. Seitel and John Doorley use case studies to explore some of the dos and don’ts of reputation management, as well as explain why public relations is the most effective tool for individuals and organizations to utilize.

What sets public relations apart from its other communications counterparts like marketing and advertising is its ability to garner earned media, which provides an inherent credibility that the other two lack. Though owned and paid media allow for complete control of the brand message, the risk in relinquishing some of that control with earned media pays off in credibility, since when a respected source says something positive about a brand, it is exponentially more valuable than when that brand says it about themselves.

The relationship between public relations practitioners and journalists has been a cornerstone in the PR profession essentially since its inception. Despite the countless new communications avenues that continue to arise with advancements in technology, for the future of the profession, it is crucial that those relationships are properly maintained. From the practitioner’s end, this means identifying media contacts who can meet their own goals through assisting yours, as well as providing those contacts with the information and context they need to tell your story accurately and effectively.

Even though the nature of reputation prohibits communicators from being in complete control of the narrative surrounding their brand, this does not mean they are free from accountability for that reputation. Public relations practitioners are tasked with the role of creating moments that authentically reflect the brand’s purpose and will also spark interest for earned media. Whether on the heels of campaigns, events or other initiatives, earned media can be viewed as a parallel channel that amplifies internal efforts with a voice of increased credibility.

The gold standard toward which PR professionals should strive is for public perception and conversation to mirror the way a brand sees itself. This relies on outside perspectives, like those of journalists, to participate in conversations, but it also requires practitioners to communicate honestly and openly, giving publics a look into the brand’s reality through the objective eyes of earned media. “Rethinking Reputation” makes the argument for public relations professionals to use credibility to their advantage, and while a lot has changed in the last decade of the communications industry, the necessity and power of earned media has never wavered.

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2020s Vision: Social Responsibility

4/26/2021

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One of the many lessons 2020 shared with us was a reminder that corporate social responsibility only works when it is authentic. When brands far and wide, from every industry and sector imaginable, posted the infamous black square on Instagram last summer, we saw a few important questions emerge: What do consumers really expect from the brands they support? What value do statements hold in today’s climate? Where do brands go from here?

True corporate activism, free from tokenistic attempts to hop on bandwagon conversations, requires two areas of focus: external messaging and internal behavior. Of course, it is important to keep customers and stakeholders informed on what companies are up to, especially when so much is constantly available at our fingertips. That being said, when 66 percent of consumers are willing to lessen or completely stop their support for brands who don’t treat employees fairly, what happens inside company walls needs to not only reflect the messages they are putting out but also the values of their target audiences.

Whether it’s through diverse hiring practices, a switch to sustainable packaging or active improvement of working conditions in production facilities, to put it plainly, customers want proof. In a time when it’s easier than ever to write a few phrases on an Instagram story or make a quick donation, words from corporate executives are quickly losing their meaning if they are not followed by action.

And this is not to say that all mistakes are death sentences. What it does mean, however, is that transparency is paramount, and that companies need to be acutely aware of their strengths and weaknesses. No matter how good a brand’s intentions are, it takes time to build credibility. After so many brands did it wrong during the height of the Black Lives Matter movement, hasty reactionary responses are easy to spot, and regardless of the thought behind them, they communicate not only lack of preparation but lack of meaningful investment in the issue at hand.

When I think about the reputation and conversation surrounding Gucci, for example, it is far from spotless. The house has had its fair share of missteps, most notably through blatantly racist product releases. For many brands, just one of the mistakes that Gucci has made during its several decades of operation would have meant their sudden death, but Gucci was able to survive due to its deep embrace of accountability. From its launch in 2018, Gucci Equilibrium signified the brand’s effort to reorient itself with its core values, along with its willingness to open its doors to honest conversations with fans and customers. The site serves as a point of reference for Gucci’s plans to better the world and the people who inhabit it. In listing the brand’s goals and activities so publicly, Gucci is making a clear commitment to its stakeholders and encouraging them to hold the brand to its claims. Whether it be through racial diversity in the industry, global gender equity or its journey to carbon neutrality, Gucci invites customers, both current and future, to join them in honest dialogue.

While some of the other trends in this series require technological advancement or major shifts in business strategy, corporate social responsibility really only needs transparency and understanding in order to thrive. Audiences expect beautiful garments and now equally beautiful motives for progress, so the integration of offerings and values will define the next decade of brand leaders.

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2020s Vision: E-Commerce

4/25/2021

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After the events of the last year, it would be easy to declare retail dead, and in many ways, a version of it is. Now over a year into this new normal, we saw a predictable boom in e-commerce as people shopped from home, but the desire for curated, personal shopping experiences never waned. In luxury especially, e-commerce was once used as a complement to physical stores, but the pandemic quite literally flipped that dynamic on its head. Moving forward, while many consumers opt for the convenience of purchasing online, physical spaces still provide a unique opportunity for customer acquisition and brand awareness.

Other industries have clear e-commerce giants that aggregate major brands into one digital destination. Aside from the obvious Amazon, music has Spotify and footwear has Zappos, while high fashion still needs a leader. If it can capitalize on this gap, Farfetch is in a great position to fill it. In addition to already having its platform outfitted for the global marketplace, Farfetch also has the advantage of seamlessly integrating e-commerce with brick-and-mortar, even in the case of independent boutiques. While the conditions of 2020 hit small businesses particularly hard, a global e-commerce player like Farfetch not only has the ability to connect shoppers with stores in their area, but it can also widen their exposure in ways that wouldn’t otherwise be possible. Farfetch just might have cracked the code to retail integration without online cannibalization.

Direct-to-consumer brands, in addition to being built with e-commerce strategy in mind, uniquely represent progress in everything from communication to sustainability. In many ways, this foundation allowed these brands to endure the COVID-19 pandemic with an agility that others lacked. With the unexpected emergence and the unprecedented scale of the challenges posed by 2020, growing pains are certainly expected for brands who were initially resistant to e-commerce. When five years’ worth of growth occurs over six months, we can certainly expect a period of adjustment and recalibration. But the final piece of this puzzle, similar to other trends, is a shift in corporate mindset.

The thought processes of many of the most prestigious fashion houses reflected a world where the exclusivity of high fashion and the accessibility of the Internet could never coexist. Not only does this devalue the opportunity to share the artistry of fashion with the world, it denies openings for advancement that come with meeting the customer where they are, which during 2020, was only through a computer screen. Embracing e-commerce in ways that make sense to individual brand identity undoubtedly represents the future of consumerism in fashion, and those who fail to innovate will feel the consequences.

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2020s Vision: Sustainability

4/21/2021

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Sustainability is the perfect example of an existing movement that was accelerated by 2020 and launched as a core value that will likely define the next major generation of consumers. Though generally associated with the use of eco-friendly textiles and the reduction of unnecessary packaging, sustainability invokes a greater conversation about consumerism and how people and purchasing interact. Impactful progress toward sustainability will require a change in narrative around fashion cycles and our relationships with the clothes we buy.

High fashion has thrived through a lens of exclusivity and the sense of status gained from wearing revered designers and pieces. To keep that elitist illusion alive, instead of putting items on sale, many brands would rather burn last season’s collection than see those garments trickle down the socioeconomic ladder. Not only does this significantly contribute to the horrific emissions attributed to the fashion industry, but it also feels incredibly disrespectful to the artistry of fashion to allow this practice to continue. So let’s look at how resale can shift this ideology.

Small but mighty, the resale market for apparel is growing 21 times faster than that of new clothes. In addition to the obvious benefits of keeping items out of landfills, many high fashion brands have failed to see resale as a key opportunity to make a connection with Gen Z customers. Since Burberry is a major offender of destroying old merchandise, let’s say a college student buys a Burberry purse on ThredUp since she loves the style but can’t afford the retail price. When she gets that bag and loves it, if and when she can afford the current season’s styles, she’ll be way more likely to return to that brand. By refusing resale opportunities, brands are basically turning away new customers at the door.

While that’s a shift needed on the brand side, it should be supported by an equally important shift on the consumer and media side. Social media, in particular, thrives on newness. Repeating outfits has become the cardinal sin of Instagram, and followers demand to be constantly surprised and stimulated. The nature of fast fashion has also contributed to this idea that there’s always something new you should be buying and posting about.

For this to change, respected and influential names across the industry will need to rewrite what it means to be a lover of fashion. Those who are authentically invested in fashion shop by feeling, not by trend. They purchase items that they appreciate as works of art, items that make them feel good and items that they intend to have an extended relationship with. Promoting this kind of consumer behavior is not only more environmentally responsible, but it also returns humanity and emotion to an industry that has lacked it for too long.

Scientific advancement will come with time and continued investment, but the mindset around sustainable consumerism has the most room for growth and participation from all facets of the industry. Brands should look at their supply chains, influencers and celebrities should consider the values of the brands they promote, and the media should shed light on examples of integrity and innovation in sustainable fashion. This holistic industry approach to sustainability will not only create a system for accountability, but it will also meet consumers directly through a core value of undeniable personal and cultural importance.

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2020s Vision: Diversity

4/20/2021

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It would take hundreds if not thousands of pages to unpack the countless ways the fashion industry has failed at diversity in its history. But after the year we’ve had, it didn’t feel right to start with anything else. Plenty before me have listed those failures as a means to shame and ridicule designers and the brands they represent (and rightfully so), but here, I want to point out a few key areas that converge as a path of opportunity.

There is an inherent dichotomy in the way fashion has treated diversity. The first part is representation, dismantling the unrealistic physical standards built and perpetuated as commercial strategies. Though it took far longer than it should have to start, we’ve seen the reliance on these standards disintegrate as customers demand change. In the last year however, as one of many conversations amplified during the Black Lives Matter movement, we’ve seen a revitalized and necessary concern in not only the outward image brands are portraying, but the diversity of thought, life experience and people that make up those brands. Here is where the differences between diversity and inclusivity become especially important.

Racial or size diversity in an advertising campaign as an attempt to satiate frustrated social media users is no longer going to cut it. Today’s consumers, more informed and value-driven than any before them, want to see quantifiable and impactful change coming from top decision-makers. In some cases, this will mean the creation of executive roles devoted to diversity and inclusion, like Gucci did for Renée Tirado in 2019, but these responsibilities should not be siloed to one position.

Diversity can be achieved with an act as minimal as opening a seat at the table, but that far from guarantees inclusivity. Inclusivity requires not only the invitation of diverse perspectives and ideas, but also ensuring that they are met with the attention and validation they deserve. This comes from the culture and environment that a company works to uphold at all levels, not one where one person is tasked with managing it.

With no existing regulating body or defined standards of best practice for issues of diversity and inclusion, in terms of race specifically, Black in Fashion Council has a plan for change. Taking inspiration from the Human Rights Campaign’s Corporate Equality Index, according to the Washington Post, the Black in Fashion Council is building a numerical system that will allow companies to better understand their performance in criteria including, “the makeup of a company’s board of directors, whether it advertises in Black-owned media or media aimed specifically at Black consumers, the diversity of its supply chain and whether unconscious-bias training is an ongoing effort.”

Though the roots of diversity efforts lay in human rights and respect, the ability to consistently measure progress through data is a major step toward lasting impact. These concepts are big, and especially on such a public scale, there is great fear of failure. Being given concrete direction toward improvement will not only push companies to do better, but it will also blatantly reveal those who fail to recognize why diversity and inclusion are essential. On the retail level, the push of the 15 Percent Pledge brought Black-owned businesses to the forefront and to 15 percent of the shelf space in major stores like Target and Shopbop, and the Black in Fashion Council has the chance to bring that momentum internally to brands. Next, hopefully this model can be brought to fashion media to set goals for both page space and editorial staff, creating a similar plan.

This is far from an exhaustive conversation about diversity in the fashion industry, and I am far from an expert. What I see in these stories, however, is a clear window of opportunity. The kind of change that is necessary for authentic commitment to diversity and inclusivity has to come from within, and while this is not exclusive to fashion, it is time for fashion to take and show real action.

Maybe above all others, my primary hope for the next decade is for significant structural progress toward meaningful corporate diversity, in fashion and all other industries, to be written about as a tenet rather than a trend.

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2020s Vision: Current Landscape

4/19/2021

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It has been a defining year to be a young person in the United States, and a fascinating one to be a fan of fashion. When the whole world stopped, industries across the board were forced to grapple with their propensity for flexibility and innovation. Art was a safe haven for a lot of us in 2020, with music and television giving us a window into a realm where challenges seemed simple when compared to the panic and major questions weighing heavy on us each day. In fashion, while consumerism took a dive, an important opportunity emerged to bring some of the industry’s persistent whispers to full conversations. I choose to see this as a recalibration, a clear chance to consider the priorities that did and should define fashion at the start of a new decade.

When asked to describe the state of the fashion industry in 2021, executives came back to three words: uncertain, challenging and disruptive. Though the journey is shaping up to be untraditional, these three words represent change. Generation Z has already proven that they will not stand for many of the elitist, exclusionary practices that were characteristic of fashion in the early 21st century, demanding expanded and authentic commitment to sustainability, diversity and overall integrity. While those expectations have been growing, the COVID-19 pandemic presented a set of problems that no one could have prepared for and in turn served as a catalyst for many necessary shifts that the industry likely should have welcomed years ago. For someone who wants to build a career in fashion, I don’t think there has been a more exciting or pivotal time to participate in what will hopefully prove to be the start of a new era.

In this 2020s Vision series, I plan to look at some of the major forces set to define the next decade of fashion, as well as the people and brands emerging as pioneers. While in many ways it feels like we’re in the eye of the storm, join me in exploring essential trends and the questions that have yet to be answered when we think about the fashion industry.

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2020s Vision: Fashion Media

Credibility: The Key to Reputation Management

2020s Vision: Social Responsibility

2020s Vision: E-Commerce

2020s Vision: Sustainability

2020s Vision: Diversity

2020s Vision: Current Landscape

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